When completing a rear housing repair, there is a lot more to it than meets the eye. To the consumer, it seems like a simple swap from an old to new cover, but this repair is complicated, far more complicated than that of a screen repair or battery replacement.
To perform this repair every part must be extracted from the device and transferred to the new rear housing. Tearing down a device without breaking or damaging parts takes expert practice.
The detailed guide below showcases the intricate process that all technicians follow when completing this repair. Our top team will now walk you through the process…
iPhone 6s Rear Housing Repair – A Step-By-Step Guide
Step 1 – The device must undergo a pre-check test, examining the entire phone for any unknown bumps or bruises.
Step 2 – The pentalobe screws either side of the charging port must be removed first, loosening the screen from the mid-frame.
Step 3 – An iSesamo tool slides under the screen splitting the adhesive and removing the seal between the mid-frame and the screen.
Step 4 – The PCB Connector bracket is unscrewed revealing the connector ribbon. This is disconnected with a plastic spludger ensuring the phone is now powerless.
Step 5 – Once all four screws are taken out of the bracket, the upper sensor array connector is exposed. Again, this must be removed with the spludger, disconnecting the screen from the device.
Step 6 – The adhesive ribbons under the battery are particularly difficult to remove. Too much force will snap the adhesive. The battery should detach from the mid-frame once the two adhesive ribbons have been removed.
Step 7 – There are two minute screws either side of the camera, these must be unscrewed, loosening the bracket and revealing the rear camera. A plastic spludger can pry the camera connector from the motherboard.
Step 8 – A Sim-Card ejection tool is pushed into the ejection hole, the tray should pop out with ease but this is all dependent on the condition of the rear housing.
Step 9 – Using a plastic spludger, the lightning cable is disconnected from the motherboard, allowing more space for the precarious process ahead.
Step 10 – The charging port antenna must be dislocated from its connection on the motherboard.
Step 11 – The same must be done for the upper earpiece antenna. This cable must be moved away from the device when removing the motherboard.
Step 12 – Two phillip screws opposite the flash bracket are first to be removed, freeing a tiny bracket.
Step 13 – Two screws holding the motherboard’s rear case are next to be removed: One by the Sim Card reader and the other is adjacent to the flash connector, highlighted in the image above.
Step 14 – The audio connector cable bracket is detached from the board and the three screws securing the antenna are removed. There are two more screws on the edge of the frame, these too must be taken out. This will free the wifi antenna from the device.
Step 15 – The screw grasping the rear motherboard frame can be removed and the audio control cable connector can be disconnected, The motherboard is no longer secured to the rear housing.
Step 16 – The bracket holding the flash in place must be removed. There are three separate screws either side of the bracket protecting the flash and the connector. The spludger is then used to pry the flash from the rear housing.
Step 17 – Before you attempt to work away at the flexes, there are a number of screws connected to the power and volume buttons which must be taken out.
Step 18 – A spludger is worked around the flex, lifting it from the case and prying the flash from it’s connector.
Step 19 – After removing the vibrating motor, the antenna running down the rear case must be pulled from the metal clip which holds it in place.
Step 20 – Five screws must then be removed from around the loudspeaker, we then use our fingers to lift and remove the assembly from the rear case.
Step 21 – Two screws must be removed from the headphone jack, there is also a screw situated on the microphone bracket which must be unscrewed.
Step 22 – Adjacent to the microphone bracket there is one screw to the left of the battery connector. The two screws securing the lightning charging must then be removed.
Step 23 – Finally, there are two small screws at the edge of the iPhone which must be taken.
Step 24 – There are two microphones either side of the charging port. The tip of a plastic spludger is used to split the adhesive securing the two components to the frame.
Step 25 – A spludger is then used to peel the lighting connector from the rear casing, removing the charging port from the assembly.
Step 26 – The four brackets and buttons either side of the old assembly must be transferred into the fresh new frame.
When reassembling the device, there are 5 golden rules our top technicians follow…
Put the screw in the right hole
When relocating screws back into the device, it’s essential that all screws make their way back into their original holes.
Failure to do so can lead to serious problems, most notably – Long Screw Damage. The scariest three words in the Mobile Phone Repairs world! If the screw pierces through the motherboard, it can cause greater damages, far more expensive than a rear housing repair, possibly breaking it beyond economical repair.
To combat this issue, a technician will implement screw mapping (as shown above). This gives the technician a clear indication of the location for each screw.
Make sure it sits flush
All parts are there for a reason, big or small. There are numerous brackets and gaskets within the device, each has its own purpose.
When completing a rear housing repair, it is essential that all parts are transplanted correctly. If one piece was to be fitted wrong or not moved to the new assembly, parts will not sit flush, leading to more damages and repairs in the future.
Don’t glue your battery into the new housing
When removing the battery from an iPhone 6s, both adhesive tapes are pulled and removed freeing the battery from the midframe. However when transferring the battery over to the new housing, the technician will need to use adhesive to stick the battery back into place. It’s vital to re-apply adhesive as a loose battery can cause the battery connector to unclip from the motherboard.
However, technicians will always avoid using adhesive glue. There needs to be some movability to allow for expansion of the battery. By gluing it down, it restricts the battery from growing, which could tear, smoke and possibly cause a fire.
Be gentle with all connector ribbons
The most delicate components within the device are the connector ribbons. Each ribbon plays a vital part in the device running smoothly. Whether that be a display screen or the battery connector ribbon, these are the veins that connect major components to the motherboard.
When connecting the cables, it’s essential to use a plastic spludger to deny any possibility of damaging a connection leading to the motherboard.
Always perform a Quality Control Check before passing a device
Before the device is given the all clear, a routine quality control check must be performed to ensure all parts are working correctly.
All aspects of the device are checked from the screen to the microphone. This check is performed across all devices, ensuring they meet our high quality standards.
An iPhone 6s rear housing repair is not for the faint hearted. There are many risks when stripping and transplanting the device from one housing to another. All repair of this difficulty should be completed by a professional. Our repair centre technicians are highly experienced at completing repairs of this calibre.
iFixed advise all inexperienced DIY techs to seek help from a professional when undertaking such a challenging repair.
If you are in need of an iPhone 6s rear housing repair, look no further than iFixed.